Alpinism
Alpinism is a discipline based on overcoming the difficulties encountered while climbing the mountain.
Alpinism
An alpine ascent can be undertaken on rock, snow, ice or mixed terrain, even using climbing techniques.
Traditionally the birth of alpinism dates back to 1786, the day of Mont Blanc’s first ascent. In this first phase alpinism was promoted by people from the privileged classes not resident in the mountains, they were helped by locals, who knew the mountains inside out (Mountain Guides). Initially the motivation to reach the summit of the main mountains was to make measurements of pressure and temperature as well as exploring glacial environments which were still unknown. Climbing alpine peaks was soon backed up by the thrill of discovery, becoming an extension of alpine tourism practiced in those days above all by English and Germans. During the first half of the nineteenth century all the main summits of the Alps are climbed for the first time.
Alpinism
Classic routes
Classic are the famous mountains, the rock faces, the ridges, routes climbed by famous alpinists who with admirable intuition climbed the more difficult but fascinating rock faces. Each era of alpinism has its classic routes, regardless of the difficulty or of the gear used. A classic route means ascents made by great alpinists who without a doubt made history and with intelligence and ability managed to find the best and most obvious routes on that mountain, or simply they managed to create something completely new with style. Luckily our mountains are covered with classic routes, and it is a true pleasure to climb them. For those passionate about alpinism we offer some classic routes in the Dolomites and in the Alps and on request any other mountain. Find out more and ask us for an estimate.
A FEW EXAMPLES OF CLASSIC ROUTES OF 2°/3° grade IN THE DOLOMITES
Catinaccio Normal Route (Devouuassoud and Tuker in 1874) Torre Stabler Normal Route (tabler and Helversen in 1892) Sassolungo Normal Route (Grohmann and Innerkofler in 1869) Cima Grande di Lavaredo Normal Route (Grohmann and Innerkofler in 1869)
A FEW EXAMPLES OF CLASSIC ROUTES OF 4°/5° grade IN THE DOLOMITES
Campanile Basso Via Fehrmann (Fehrmann and Perry Smith in 1908) Pala di San Martino Gran Pilastro (Langes and Merlet in 1920) Torre Delago Spigolo Sud Ovest (Piaz and Jori in 1911) Marmolada Parete Sud (Bettega, Zangonel and Tomasson in 1901) Tofana di Rozes Parete Sud (Dimai and Eotvos in 1901)
A FEW EXAMPLES OF CLASSIC ROUTES OF 5°/6° grade IN THE DOLOMITES
Civetta Parete Nord Ovest (Solleder and Lettembauer in 1925) Cima Ovest di Lavaredo Parete Nord (Cassin and Ratti in 1935) Brenta Alta Parete Nord Est (Detassis e Battistata in 1934) Marmolada di Rocca Parete Sud (Vinatzer e Castiglioni in 1936) Torre Venezia Parete Sud (Tissi and Andrich in 1933)
High altitude and summits
Ascents to the most beautiful and classic peaks in the Alps. Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, Matterhorn, Gran Paradis are only a few of the hundred opportunities the Alps have to offer.
Normal routes, ridges, north faces, traversing of glaciers. I can propose any summit and any type of ascent.
Courses
ALPINISM COURSE ON ROCK
This course is suitable for those who have already climbed before. Progression on rock will be taught, and the course is ideal for those who wish to learn how to move safely on trad routes in the mountains where it is necessary to create anchors and use special belaying techniques as well as placing protections such as cams, stoppers, pegs etc. Various rope manouvers will also be taught.To find out more ask for the details.
ALTITUDE COURSE
Throughout this course a number of topics are covered, these vary from how to use crampons and ice axes on various terrain, how to progress, tied up, on a glacier, how to progress along a ridge, how to climb along easy rocks and high mountain terrain, technical safety tips, creating belay points, using a rope.
Views you will never forget
Together lets reach the highest peaks
Vie normali, grandi creste, pareti nord, traversate di ghiacciai. Posso proporvi qualsiasi vetta e tipo di ascensione.
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